Green Pinstripe Swiss Waist with overskirt and belt remade for late 1860's

ORIG CIVIL WAR VICTORIAN GREEN TAFFETA 3PC BALL GOWN DRESS BODICE OVER SKIRT

From the Seller

An very lovely original Civil War 1850 / 1865 mid Victorian ball gown. This ensemble consists of 4 pieces, the bodice, a skirt, an overskirt and a matching belt. I do not have a mannequin that is small enough so I had to adjust. The bodice is chintz lined with a wooden stay in the back only on each side. Very lovely ivory silk satin ribbon as the trim and matching fabric covered buttons. The unlined skirt seems to have been taken apart and an attempt was started to create a bigger waist along with inserting a piece of blue taffeta with a drawstring on each side. The cartridge pleats are no longer present however the waistband has been reattached to the skirt. There is a seam open from waist almost to the hem. A 10" stuff fabric lines the skirt to give it weight and protection. The overskirt is quite interesting, please see photos as it is hard to describe. Overall it is in good clean condition, the bodice has minimal organic marks. The skirt has a very small pinholes, a small cluster of discoloration most likely from water. And a 2" x 1" L shaped tear that looks similar to a hanger getting caught on it; it can be easily patched. A very lovely gown that appears to have been started to recreate a gown that would be more fashionable after the Civil War era. This would take a knowledgeable seamstress but certainly can be brought back to its originality.

Painting of Francis Addeline Seward by Emmanuel Gottlieb Leutz early 1860's

Original dress in the Irma G. Bowen Historical Clothing Collection at the University of New Hampshire

From the Industrious Lady

Now isn't this gown just a beauty, it was far too tempting not to buy. The seller is correct, it looks like a member of the original cast did try to recreate it into a later fashion. However, I would place it as originally being around 1863 and being remade for a late 1860's dress, with an attempt to going from a bell shape to an eliptical, it appears that the tabs are bringing more of the fullness of the skirt to the back and flattening out the front. Whoever thought of that idea was ingenious! She (or he) knew that the overskirt would cover up the skirt balance modifications so she went a little bit more out there an obtrusive. It seems to have worked! At first glance I thought it was a late 1860's dress. Its also interesting to note that it is not a ballgown but rather a matching swiss waist and skirt, which would have had a white body (bodice) worn under the waist.  It sits below the bosom line and is not a neckline or sleeve style seen on gowns for another 20 years during the second bustle era. This style of waist is seen in fashion plates but is different from what is considered a typical waist or corselet as it closes with hook and eyes, with no corset closure to draw it tight. Here is a nice post by Leimomi Oakes at the Dreamstress about the differences between the different waist styles. This is one of the swiss waists that matches the skirt, (as opposed to being a contrast color) and has remained together as a set. Many CDV's show sets like the one above worn over white waists, which would have been sheer or of very light material. This may not be a ballgown but in my humble opinion it is even better! Few have survived, and with the tirm, the matching belt and overskirt, and the pinked trim it is a treasure! Here are some CDV's to give reference to how it was probably worn.