Moire Dress Series Part 1


Moire Fabric, Moire Problems



C.I.41.21.4a, b Dress from the Met Museum

I do not need another ballgown...

I do not need another ballgown...

I do not need another ballgown...

Image may contain: indoor

Guys, it happened again. My ballgown loving heart has overwritten my senses and gone against my better judgement. My mind and soul have been hijacked by fashion plates and dreams of using the beautiful watermarked moire fabric in my stash. And with that push off the edge of sanity into the rabbit-hole of a new dress. I do not know if I shall survive this time, the journey shall be arduous and rough but the end shall be worth it. And with that dear readers, grab my blogging hand and lets start the adventure!
343 Best CIVIL WAR FASHION images | Civil war fashion, Vintage ...
For fabric, I chose one of the more obscure of textiles. Its beauty forgotten, the name nothing more than a distant memory that everyone remembers reading about in some old dusty fashion history book, or seen in an obscure fashion plate. It is the Moire, a style of fabric used from medieval times to the 20th century. There are two ways to make the design but both involve a heated hot roller over the folded fabric. (Greenhouse fabrics, 2017) This texture is similar to how water will mark silk, thus it is sometimes called watermarked fabric, even though it is often made using heat.
Муар in 2020 | Fashion, Civil war fashion, Civil war dress
Moire itself is not really a fabric per se but a finish. Traditionally it was made on silk, but is now applied to cotton, wool, rayon, polyester etc. There are other finishes which are considered to have the moire look but true moire is created using hot roller to change the warp of the fabric. Cartouche, Masalia, and Bengaline all have a moire look but are not made using the same techniques.  (Dictionary of Textiles, Harmuth, 1913)
The Quintessential Clothes Pen – Page 44 – an exploration of ...
The Dress on the far left shows moire effect.

If interested in looking for moire these are places below that sell moire to this day, just make sure that its apparel fabric not upholstery.
https://www.moodfabrics.com/fashion-fabrics/polyester/moire
https://www.fabriccarolina.com/shop-by-type/moire/
https://www.onlinefabricstore.net/hsearchresult.aspx?keyword=moire







HARMUTH, L. O. U. I. S. (2015). Dictionary Of Textiles (Classic Reprint). Place of publication not identified: FORGOTTEN Books.

What's a Moire? (2018, November 1). Retrieved June 7, 2020, from https://www.greenhousefabrics.com/blog/whats-moire

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Bodice with Bretelles

Image
This lovely Satin Material is the Park Square in Adobe from the Allen Park collection, sadly no longer available. Good thing I had seven yards of it, enough for a dress for me and vest for the hubby. The bodice had to be cut twice, the first time the lines were offset, oops.  Ah the bretelles. 19th century ladies liked their french fou fou names. Any ordinary style instantly becomes 10x fancier with a french name attached.  Few, the bodice fit. Which was great since I like to live dangerously and skip the mock-up step.  Alright Bretelles, I see you there. LOOKING ALL FINE.... buttt it didn't match quite right, time to recut.  That's better on matching. The bretelles and hook and eyes were completely handsewn in. Poor middle finger had worn through, snd the unfortunate old curse from the sewing shop returned. If I wear my middle finger skin through too much, and needles are dull, the back of the needle will start going into my finger instead of the material. This is why thimbles
Read more

Sissi Wedding dress

Image
 2021 was rough for the industrious Lady Blog and my dear followers you deserve an apology. In the spirit of being a poor adult who also has a certain addiction to silk, I spent the last year without active internet service or a working computer. Any posts that were made were done using the computer at the local library. As one can imagine, that made blogging and writing about projects pretty rough. And boy is there a lot to write about. The only thing that got me through was petting the pretty silks and chocolate, lots and lots of chocolate.  2021 might have been rough for writing but a huge new event happened that my dear readers don't know about yet, I got married. And of course in the spirit of industry and fun, I made my wedding dress. As I sat as a now engaged human, a choice had to be made, the choice of what kind of fun dress to make. And it had to be the perfect dress... the ultimate dress... and then it hit me. What dress in all of 19th century history is most close to pe
Read more

Octagon Bodice with Bretelles: Introduction and history

Image
 Octagon Dress with Bretelles Guys, I'm in  love... in love with a new pattern company!  Truly Victorian is Great, past patterns is definitely a step into the past, but they seem to do a very certain look of the era and a very similar look. In the years encompassing the civil war era so many new looks and styles were coming out, so many that the big historical pattern companies didn't have. Which to be fair they can't carry every single style for the entire era, they only have so many people to draft so many patterns. But after pp and tv for so long, this girl needed a change, a Change the Octagon Ladies Repository brought. A good basquine bodice... she got it Need outerwear for winter... they have 9, yes 9 outerwear patterns. A wateau wrapper, Godey's 1863 shows a wateau back dress and been obsessed ever since  and so much more! And a link to the website h ere So many pretties to make, good thing I have that weird obsession with hoarding silk. For the first project we&
Read more