**** yes my sister wrote this, I have added in citations. There are three different writers that contribute to this blog. Myself, Holly. and a friend who wishes to remain anonymous. Any plagiarism was unintentional, new in-text citations and picture citations have been added per mla format. She's only 19 and thought the links at the bottom were sufficient citations, which has been corrected. Thank you.****
Bobbinet Fabric, A Fabric Gone with the Wind
King, Kenneth D. “Dior Extended the Boning over the Bust. To People Who Say Never to Do This, My Response Is, If Dior Did It, It’s Good Enough for Me.” Threads, The Taunton Press, 9 Oct. 2017, www.threadsmagazine.com/2017/10/09/an-inside-look-at-vintage-dior-strapless-gowns-from-the-1950s.
What Is It?
Bobbinet is a fabric made of small hexagonal honeycomb shapes, and was used as the base for many different types of laces. (Brennan, 2018) All lace prior to the early 1800's was created by hand using multiple bobbins that were used to twist and cross each strand of the material. In 1808, the first machine to make the bobbinet was invented by John Heathcoat.
Brennan, Julia, and Kaitlyn Munroe. “ Pictured Here Is Dukeries Old Twist Hand Bobbinet Machine, Which Is Quite Small and Rare, Built in the 1850 ‘s. Workers in Those Days Had to Build Their Own Small Bobbinet Machine before They Were Allowed on the Large Bobbinet Machines!” Caring for Textiles, Caring for Textiles, 30 Apr. 2018, www.caringfortextiles.com/tag/textile-conservation/.
This is a hand twist machine from the early 1850's. This is only a small version of the much larger industrial machines. (Brennan,2018). Part of the cost of bobbinet today is the rarity of machinery to make it, and the inefficiency of the old machines. It is only considered bobbinet fabric if made on a bobbinet machine. (Brennan, 2018)It is traditionally either white or black.
“10' - 30' Bobbinette, FR - Weave A.” Rose Brand, Director Technology Partners, www.rosebrand.com/product35/10-30-Bobbinette-FR-Weave-A.aspx?cid=157&idx=1&tid=1&info=Bobbinette Fabrics.
Besides being a bit finer than other net based fabrics, it is also extremely strong for such a fine fabric, with a good drape, and can dampen light. The prior attribute has led to its use in theater and photography. Besides those two uses, it is often seen in coutre fashion, on high end bridal gowns, and in historical reenacting. (admin, 2012) Early dancers used it to create the stiff tutu's on their dresses during the early 1900's. Degas's little dancer is believed to be wearing a bobbinet tutu, and is on display at the Met Museum. (Brennan, 2018)
Tulle and bobbinet are very similar, thus some references even do not separate bobbinet and tulle, and most of people still can not tell the difference between tulle and bobbinet. (Brennan, 2018) The difference lies in how it is weaved, including a stronger weight bearing ability and how it refracts light. (Sophia.T.,2015)
King, Kenneth D. “Dior Extended the Boning over the Bust. To People Who Say Never to Do This, My Response Is, If Dior Did It, It’s Good Enough for Me.” Threads, The Taunton Press, 9 Oct. 2017, www.threadsmagazine.com/2017/10/09/an-inside-look-at-vintage-dior-strapless-gowns-from-the-1950s.
The corselets found inside many of the classic "New Look" dresses are made from several layers of Bobbinet, it has been a favorite of Christian Dior for many of his coutre dresses over the year. (Sophia.T., 2015)
King, Kenneth D. “Dior Extended the Boning over the Bust. To People Who Say Never to Do This, My Response Is, If Dior Did It, It’s Good Enough for Me.” Threads, The Taunton Press, 9 Oct. 2017, www.threadsmagazine.com/2017/10/09/an-inside-look-at-vintage-dior-strapless-gowns-from-the-1950s.
This fabric has struggled in the modern age for a few different reasons. The machines to make it are now close to a hundred years old of even older, it is very labor intensive with some machines being handcranks. Unfortunately this make the fabric very expensive to make and few can afford it. Not only that but there is little need for it anymore, the market has severely narrowed. Few brides can afford the hefty price tag and it has so much competition from the other cheaper laces bases. Its struggling to find its place in the 21st century, and I fear it may never have a comeback. Few machines, labor intensive, few customers, high prices, and heavy competition are leading to the fear that this old fabric will become nothing more than another art of history lost to the ages.
Brennan, Julia. “Home.” Caring For Textiles, Caring For Textiles, 30 Apr. 2018, www.caringfortextiles.com/tag/conservation-treatments/.
Really interesting read, thank you for sharing it. I know I learned something. It really does look just like tulle and I think I have some vintage pieces that have made good use of it too. I had some original 30s evening gowns that used it on the interior for binding raw edges.
ReplyDeleteWill you be using this bobbinet for any of your projects?
Jennie from theuglydame.blogspot.com