Bodice with Bretelles

 ORIG ANTIQUE 1870 LILAC PURPLE SILK FAILLE FAB CHENILLE TRIM GOWN BODICE PARIS

From the Seller

A very fine original 1870s ball gown bodice in the most beautiful shade of lilac purple adorned with unique matching purple very tiny loop trim and darker purple 2" long chenille fringe. The trim is sewn as a collar backed by horsehair ? crinoline. Fabric is silk faille and it is quite sturdy, in fabulous condition. Lined in high quality glazed cotton, 8 various size metal stays with the longest being the one in the front supporting the V and in the back supporting the points. Double piped completely around the bottom. A waist cincher with ROBES AND CONFECTIONS MERLOTLARCHEVEQUIE  21. BOULEVART des CAPUCINES.21 which was in PARIS. A low scoop neckline that was to show cleavage. The sweet cap sleeves not only had the fabulous trim but also short box pleats and a narrow layer of off white tulle lace, Most of the lace has deteriorated. With the tiny eyelet pointed lace up, the back is just as lovely as the front. A very thin brown lacing is still intact. 

  The superb bodice is in extremely good condition, a very short organic mark at the right underarm only. One very faint light mark in the back that is about the size of a dime. A very rare find, the color and trim is spectacular and the overall design is the epitome of the era!! 

From the Industrious Lady

"We enter the inner sanctum of Mme. Merlot Larchevêque, and see tissues of the most exquisite hues, of the richest textures, and in an unprecedented variety, thrown round in the greatest profusion" Godey's February 1867. 

The tag reads dresses and confections, and I remember walking in a museum with family friends and the little girl exclaimed "look at all the cupcake dresses." This is definitely a cupcake dress, and a great piece of art, While I might suggest not trying to eat it, this ball bodice is truly a feast for the eyes. 

The Victorian era was the rise of the middle class and middle upper class. America didn't have royalty or sumptuary laws that dictated who could wear what finery. Up sprang many dozens of small couture houses in Paris catering to Americans who wanted to order their wardrobes from the fashion center. You can read more about it here. How special that one of the creation made at Mme. Larchevêque's  made it to the modern age. There is another dress at the FDIM museum also created by the house. Another one from the natural form era can be seen here. 

Interesting point of note is the use of chenille trim. We see this often on headdresses and chenille hair nets, and it seems to be an under utilized trim form used on recreated dresses, A ball bodice, especially one commision in France, was the most intricate and expensive item in a ladies wardrobe. Using trim such as this seems to indicate that it was considered a nice enough trim to be worn and drooled over by the upper class. The bodice also shows the use of a waist tape and lovely 1860's ball bodices before the transition to higher shoulders towards the transition to the first bustle era.