. Truly Victorian Grand Bustle 108

 

I like Big Bustles and I cannot lie




Materials: 

Sheet from Goodwill: $1.50
Boning from an old hoop: $0
Bone casing from goodwill: $50
Pattern: $10.00

Total: $12.50


So this pattern is pretty straightforward. There are four gored pieces that make up the front and are smooth. There is on curved piece for the back, and another piece that is used to pull the ends of the boning together and keep the boned bustle part off your legs. 





I did the Truly Victorian Digital patterns that are printed off on the computer, laid out so the sides and matching, then taped together. I then cut it like a regular paper pattern and use it like normal.





Like this!



So for the next step, cut out all the pattern pieces and put boning channels on the back piece before sewing to the front and sides or putting in the brace piece. I chose to put the ruffles on next before adding boning or doing any more sewing. The instructions said to put the boning channels on the outside but I put them on the inside and just closed the boning casings by hand. 




Mark on the back piece where you want to place the ruffles. I put mine every four inches so that the ends are overlapping. Using this spacing, the bustle took seven ruffles.



I gathered the ruffles by hand, and sewed them on by machine, making sure to be mindful of the boning channels, and skipping over the spot where channel 7 goes vertical. Channel 7 is kinda special as instead of going horizontal like the other channels, it will go in a bow vertically, run through a tap, then bow back down and tuck into the other side. Like a rainbow that lays over the other bones. 







If the ruffles are sewn on upside down, when you flip them over like the picture above, there should be no exposed seams.



Next step is to sew this back floofy piece to the back brace, and then taking the edges where the two pieces are sewn together and sew to the side. This should make a circle. The front two panels will have your waist opening. hem the whole things and add a waistband. And you are done!  This style is for the first bustle period and works from early to late 1870's and will fall out of fashion with the transition to the natural form era. 

And yes, dancing around the house singing "I like big butts and cannot lie" is totally acceptable.



Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Sissi Wedding dress

Image
 2021 was rough for the industrious Lady Blog and my dear followers you deserve an apology. In the spirit of being a poor adult who also has a certain addiction to silk, I spent the last year without active internet service or a working computer. Any posts that were made were done using the computer at the local library. As one can imagine, that made blogging and writing about projects pretty rough. And boy is there a lot to write about. The only thing that got me through was petting the pretty silks and chocolate, lots and lots of chocolate.  2021 might have been rough for writing but a huge new event happened that my dear readers don't know about yet, I got married. And of course in the spirit of industry and fun, I made my wedding dress. As I sat as a now engaged human, a choice had to be made, the choice of what kind of fun dress to make. And it had to be the perfect dress... the ultimate dress... and then it hit me. What dress in all of 19th century history is most close to pe
Read more

Bodice with Bretelles

Image
This lovely Satin Material is the Park Square in Adobe from the Allen Park collection, sadly no longer available. Good thing I had seven yards of it, enough for a dress for me and vest for the hubby. The bodice had to be cut twice, the first time the lines were offset, oops.  Ah the bretelles. 19th century ladies liked their french fou fou names. Any ordinary style instantly becomes 10x fancier with a french name attached.  Few, the bodice fit. Which was great since I like to live dangerously and skip the mock-up step.  Alright Bretelles, I see you there. LOOKING ALL FINE.... buttt it didn't match quite right, time to recut.  That's better on matching. The bretelles and hook and eyes were completely handsewn in. Poor middle finger had worn through, snd the unfortunate old curse from the sewing shop returned. If I wear my middle finger skin through too much, and needles are dull, the back of the needle will start going into my finger instead of the material. This is why thimbles
Read more
Image
Halloween Sew-Along Part 2 For this project, I chose the night and day dress. I had seen it years ago while researching what fancy dress ball gowns looked like. Unfortunately, the origin of this lovely dress is a mystery. It is all over pinterest, yet  following link after link only leads to a twitter account that is no longer active or a picture on tumblr.  http://www.rmgandco.com/cms/?option=com_k2&view=item&id= 204:nightday-dress-by-cf-worth-1858&Itemid=244  was another link attributed to this dress, but the link must be broken or non-functioning. The url says it was a night/day dress by CF Worth in 1858. If the date is correct, this dress would have been during the first year of House of Worth being started. Wherever this dress came from, it absolutely stunning, and would turn any lady into the belle of the ball. To recreate this dress, I had to break down the many different part of it. From the top layer to  the bottom.   The dress is divided into two sides,
Read more