Period Impression 419 Paletot Part 1



So my old paletot is getting old and kinda takes the whole big, black, and ugly to a whole 'nother level. A new paletot was in order and this beautiful fabric was just asking to be made. Winter wear for the era could range from tight fitting to cloaks with no sleeves. A paletot specifically is semi fitted and French in origin. It could range from hip length to nearly to the floor. There are hundreds of originals and styles, but I found the two below that served as inspiration for the type that I wanted to make. Michigan winters are freezing and I needed something long and warm. I chose the PI 419 pattern due to its similarity to the one on the left. 
Image result for 1860's paletotImage result for 1860's paletot

So I left this unlined as many from the period were, and it is made out of wool coating, for closure I went with a frog clasp. I found a few originals that had these closures, and since my other paletot has buttons, I wanted this one to be different. 

Image result for 1860's frog closure

It turned out pretty nice from the side and back, even if it did turn out so large. I'm not sure why this get so much hate. Its really quite a nice pattern and comes out very nicely.


I did modify the sleeves. the original ones on the pattern were nearly eight inches longer and much more pointed. I felt like those sleeves gave off too much of a church choir vibe, and lets be honest, which I just can't pull off even on a good day. 



So now that the structural part is done, time to think about trim and what better than soutache braid. Now I have never done braid trim before so this could be fun!! in a lot of ways it almost reminiscent of embroidery. The pattern is traced on tissue paper and sewn right to the fabric with the braid. Not sure how it will turn out but that's all part of the adventure right? The one below is from the Met and I adore this but it looks maybe like it would work better for a second soutache project rather than the first.

Dress Date: ca. 1865

Here are some things that I pulled from Godey's as inspiration. The first is easiest and a good contender. The other to are just pretty. As of now its a toss up as to which will actually be chosen


Pretty, but very complicated and looks like it will take a lot of trim. I only bought a few yards of this so trying to stay within the bounds of what can be made with that. 


This is why I need a little niece or girl to dress! Isn't this just cute? I can see a sweet little girl with her hair done up in ringlets and a muff on her hands, wearing this paletot walking down a snowy street as we go from window to window enjoying the christmas lights and hustle and bustle. Please on of my friends have a little girl so I can dress her! Little girl outfits are just too precious in the meantime, back to more research on trim ideas and getting this paletot to the next level.


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