Late 1850's, Early 1860's Matching Velvet Bracelets Part I:
A CSI of Victorian wrists
I have been in need of a pair of bracelets for my ball ensemble for some time. There was a lovely pair for sale at an auction house with the 1860's tag. Absolutely gorgeous moonstones set against the blackest black of all velvets, barely touched from the century and half life it had had. And that's the moment I decided I needed a pair.
Now, just because the bracelet I had seen was dated to the era, did not mean that the date was correct or that it was something prevalent enough to reproduce and wear. I wanted proof that there was a bracelet with a box clasp and velvet band used during our era. There are a few different styles of terms used during the era making thins rather muddled, so lets start off with some terms.
WRISTLET
A wristlet was a style that employed velvet ribbon, but they were bulky and had gathered velvet on a cotton band, and had a bow or arranged ribbon with the center piece on it.
CUFF
A cuff just describes a matching fabric decoration on the wrist, could be very functional. Only found one example of a decorative cuff and that is in Godey's lady book, June, 1862
BRACELET
A Bracelet was a piece of decorative jewelry placed on the lower arm
Terms now defined, lets get into the meat of the research.
There is sufficient evidence of embroidered and beaded styles used during the Georgian era, and again in the early 1850's, and in the bustle era. However, research into use of the jewelry during the 1860's by acclaimed and well known historians, or even informal bloggers, just doesn't seem to be subject studied in depth to either for or against their use. I say use instead of existence because there is not denyint that during the last 250 years, matching velvet bracelets existed, its the use during the war era that is the question. Any reenactor who wants to provide the best possible portrayal of the era should be curious about this. Learning and researching is part of how we grow; if our job is to provide a window through time for all who see us, why would anyone want that window to be skewed or a misrepresentation of the women and men who lived in these times. We would be doing them dishonor and shame by twisting the past into what we want it to be and to fit our modern ideas and comfort. This hobby is proressive, and it only progresses through continued research and shared ideas such as is done through good, informed bloggers such as this blog strives to be.
So after several weeks of research, digging through original magazines and studying hundreds of paintings/CDV's, I compiled all of the evidence that I could find. Only the cdvs or images that I could be 85% or more certain that are velvet band bracelets were used. There were three major places that were first hand and documented well enough to be considered sufficient to support the use of the bracelets during the war:
1.Original magazines from 1856-1864,
(Godey's and Peterson's)
2. Paintings and CDV's from the era
3. Extant pieces that were dated by reputable historians
Magazines
The magazines were surprisingly quiet on the use of velvet bracelets. Godey's vol. 60 did reference the use of velvet wristlets, but it is the style mounted to elastic, (which I am skeptical that what the magazine refers to as elastic is anything like what we use in the modern age), not the style exactly that I'm lookin for.
Fashion plates are difficult to decipher as to whether the wearer has on a regular pair of bracelets with a box clasp or a pair with a velvet strap
The lady in pink on the right appears to be wearing a velvet bracelet.
Paintings and CDV's
One of the issues with cdv's of the era I struggled with is being able to tell if the figure was wearing a separate bracelet or if it was part of the undersleeves. I did not want to use anything as evidence without being able to say with 85% certainty that it is a velvet bracelet, and zooming in doesn't help. The picture on the left is definitely a separate bracelet but it is hard to tell if it is hair velvet, or even silk.
On the other hand, the 1856 painting below clearly shows the wearer demonstrating
a nice pair of velvet bands almost exactly like the originals seen in the met that is
dated to the mid 1880's.
+
This painting is dated to 1860 and shows a nice pair of velvet bracelets.
Originals
Left: Early 1860's Hair band and brooch clasp
Lower left: 1850's velvet band box clasp locket bracelet with daguerreotype inside.
Below: Another style of hair band bracelet.
Lingering questions:
During my research, I found that Godey's had drawings for beaded bracelets in a couple different places. This is tricky as it could mean bead and string only , or it could mean beading on velvet or silk similar to those used during earlier periods, such as this 1840's pair. I show a comparison above of the pattern used for a 100% beaded bracelet and a pattern found in Godey's lady's book. Big difference in pattern style. The one on the right is clearly a beaded bracelet, but the one of the left is shown almost on a background.
But were they still in use during the civil war era? Maybe this is one of the things where as more original sources are found we can answer those questions. When only antique pieces are left, dating is hard, since the piece is dated by the style, and the style is dated to that period because it is known that pieces like it existed. These extant jewelry could belong to a different era and be incorrectly aged, but that is all speculation. How easy it would be if we could just ask someone from the time period about it, but outside of doing seance, it all may just have to remain a mystery for now.
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